Delfino Ferrari

Since 1984, Delfino Ferrari has been designing and making 18K gold jewelry by hand in Bergamo, Italy. Not a man of words, but instinct and passion, Ferrari emphasizes again and again, “I produce only the things that I like.” On why he is drawn to this or that shape or effect, especially his penchant for combining matte and shiny textures, he analogizes the process to falling in love: “It’s like loving a man or woman: even though all men are the same and all women are the same, each person is different. It’s impossible to explain. But the feeling is different.” For Ferrari, jewelry is entirely about passion, soulfulness and instinct. “My jewels must catch the feeling of the soul of each perso...

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Bernard Delettrez

No doubt about it, Bernard Delettrez is, hands down, the most original and free-thinking designer we’ve met for a long time – maybe ever. For thirty years, he’s marched (or, rather, clapped) to the beat of his own drum, becoming obsessed with stones that were considered cheap or outré, like rock crystal and tanzanite, when they first appeared on the market (only for them to become wildly popular later). Ditto for many of his ideas, such as the eye. “Everyone thought I was crazy when I introduced it twelve years ago but it’s become my most copied piece.” Copying is undoubtedly the price of an imagination that is so boundless and prolific that Delettrez frequently needs to stop his moto...

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Jennifer Creel

Jennifer Creel‘s personalized jewels are traced in her own history, growing up on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, each piece anchored in her personal narrative: “The jewelry is like a memory. It’s very raw for me, exposing my true colors and how I was brought up. These pieces were very memorable moments in my life [and] are associated with a specific time, event or period. Each piece brings you back to that time, that emotion, and makes you nostalgic, sentimental. If you can create something tactile, if you can let your friends and children have a moment of your life, that’s a lovely thing. This jewelry [is] the story of who the person is.” The letter charm bracelet (pictured below), for e...

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Ashu Malpani

Ashu Malpani comes from a family of jewelers dating back to 1727, when they were jewelers to the royal family at Jaipur Palace. These days, raw and sliced diamonds are becoming increasingly popular. But, as early as 2000, Malpani noticed that, when a traditional diamond was cut, slices of rough diamond were discarded. Malpani asked his cutter to add facets to this sliced rough material. His first piece was stunningly beautiful and triggered an obsession which endures until today. At the beginning, there was no machinery to cut rough diamonds. Therefore, each piece was faceted by master cutters tasked with revealing the inner beauty and fire of each stone. Now, the industry uses lasers to sli...

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Patile Kalandjian

Patile Kalandjian has always been into jewelry. As far back as elementary school, she got into trouble for bringing in beads and selling jewelry at school. However, she rebelled at the idea of joining the family jewelry business, “Suzanne Kalan,” and insisted on working as a bank teller when she was 18. After a year, though, Patile did an about-face and told her parents, “I don’t like working for anyone except you guys.” From the age of 22, Patile began working at the office, her formidable mother, Suzanne Kalandjian, mentoring and guiding her about the jewelry industry. Mother and daughter focus on different clienteles but they share the belief that “Everything I design I would wear myself....

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Jack Vartanian

The son of a Lebanese Armenian gem dealer who emigrated to Brazil, Jack Vartanian was steeped in the jewelry business from an early age and traveled with his father to far-flung corners of the globe to source and trade gemstones. In 1999, Vartanian, frustrated by the mediocre design of the finished jewelry in which his family’s gemstones ended up, decided to launch his eponymous brand. One of the first designers to collaborate with fashion personalities, Vartanian’s jewels have been worn by supermodel Gisele Bundchen since she was 19. At the time, working with a model was unconventional, but Vartanian saw potential in mixing fine jewelry and fashion. This philosophy has led to a growing oeuv...

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Sophie Birgitt

Sophie-Birgitt Debuf confesses in our interview that her father, a top Belgian interior and architectural designer, "is a perfectionist obsessed with details and he passed that on to me." That almost pathological commitment to precision is reflected in her debut collection for her eponymous brand, Sophie Birgitt. Debuf got into jewelrymaking because she needed a clasp for a bracelet and contacted bench jeweler, Nathalie Melville, to learn how to make it. Her casual foray into jewelry quickly became her dominating passion. Debuf discovered an affinity for metal which was immediate and visceral. "Metal is not like a pencil. You can’t just erase it and wipe it out. You invest in two days of wor...

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Joelle Jewellery

Joelle Savransky was never able to escape from the jewelry business. The sister of AS29’s Audrey Savransky, Joelle was determined to go her own way and enrolled in Belgium’s fabled fashion school, the Royal Academy of Antwerp, only to realize soon afterwards that it was easier to embrace her roots: jewelry design. Her first line was Ma Petite Cherie, a jewelry line for mothers and daughters that continues to exist today. “It is very girly, very romantic. It’s the first diamond you will buy for your daughter...Then, I got pregnant and had a daughter and wanted to do something for women. I matured.” In the wake of that transformation, Joelle Jewellery was born in 2013. Now, her brand is...

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